It's the hottest thing since sliced bread burning in the toaster! It's name says it all! If flying conventional aircraft that perform in a conventional way it is not for you, try hot dogging your way around the sky with our latest Airborne plan. Easy to build ... a blast to fly!
This strange looking craft flies very well, in fact I would have to say that it is fantastic!!!! It has a wide range of flying speeds due in part to the thick wing section and excess power. All normal aerobatics are easily achieved with this rudderless model. The speed range of this model will astound you, you can fly it at walking pace on a light breeze but give it full throttle and it's absolutely ballistic. The vertical performance is superb, but be warned keep your eye on it or it will be out of sight very quick!
I must admit hand launch models have never been a favourite of mine, but this one changed my opinion. It's really a quite a good way of getting a model airborne, especially this one, give it full throttle take three steps and throw. It's really that easy. With the symmetrical wing the model flew inverted with no problems. Rolls are as quick as you would like them (just crack in more aileron throw). Loops are tight even with reduced elevator throw. Landing the model is also very easy, just kill the engine on final approach and glide it in. After a few flights you can land the model at your feet. It's really that manageable. So now that you're interested let's show you how easy how easy it is to build.
The wing is very simple to build using conventional construction methods as follows. Begin by cutting out all the ribs from 2.5mm balsa. This can easily be achieved by the sandwich method or by cutting them out individually. Lay down the lower 6.5mm sq. spruce spar over the plan (use clear lunch wrap over the plan first). To keep all the ribs in line with each other, support the rear of the ribs by laying a piece of scrap balsa along the trailing edge position of the plan. So with this done you should have all the ribs glued and standing up like little soldiers in no time! Follow this by adding the top 6.5mm sq. spruce spar, leading edge and trailing edge. The 1.5mm leading edge and trailing edge sheeting is next, when completed this will be the top of the wing. Add the 1.5mm shear webbing next, make these as neat a fit as possible for maximum strength, don't forget the grain runs vertical. Sheet the center section cutting out the servo holes as you go (if you choose the single servo control method). Finish the top of the wing by adding the cap strips and the wing tip pieces as per plan. It is now that the wing can be removed from the plan and turned over. Add the leading edge and trailing edge sheeting along with the center section and cap strips. Complete the wing tip pieces as per plan. Complete the wing by installing the aileron torque rods. All that's left now is to start sanding, adding more balsa dust to the troposphere! (How's your schoolboy meteorology?)
Make up the ailerons, fins, elevator and tailplane from 6.5mm balsa, fairly simple here, just take note of the grain direction on the two fins, this is done for strength.
Like the wing the fuselage is very straight forward and there is no complex jigging required. Begin by cutting the two fuselage sides and marking where the formers are positioned. Glue the ply doublers to the sides remembering to make a left and a right side, we don't want two the same now do we! Add 12.5mm triangle to the sides as per the plan. Having cut out the formers F1 to F5 lay one fuselage side down and glue the formers in position. Add the remaining fuselage bottom sheeting between F1 and F3 followed by 3mm from F4 through to the tail. Make a 6.5mm hatch between F3 and F4 and tack glue in place. Now is also a good time to make the fuel tank hatch. Time to make more dust, start sanding the fuselage to shape as per the cross section on the plan. Mount your engine and fill in the nose section with N1 and N2, 6.5mm balsa sheet and 12.5mm triangle. The final shape of the nose section will depend on your engine selection will depend on your engine selection. Remove your engine before shaping.
The prototype was fitted with an OS 25FX. This proved to be a good choice due to it's high power to weight ratio. The fuel tank location is straight forward allowing room below the tank position for a small flat battery pack
A 2 inch wheel was fitted, the wheel access hole also doubled as an access hole for the battery which in turn was placed inside the wing cavity. [See plan]
Having gone this far don't be tempted to glue the wing to the fuselage just yet, now is a good time to set up the radio gear positions. Fit out the engine bay sheeting and sand to shape. [check the plan here, nothing like a picture to show what's what!] Now you can spread that epoxy glue and join the wing to the fuselage making sure a good joint is made. It's time to add the tailplane to the model, this being made up from 6.5mm balsa sheeting keeping in mind that if you used aileron torque rods you will have to notch out the front edge of the tailplane to make a neat fit up against the wing. Having done this you can cut out an access hatch through the tailplane between F4 and F5 then adding the hatch mounting plates as per plan.
Well there is not much to do now but to add the elevators and the ailerins, I added the fins after they were covered making the covering job a little easier.
The model is a little awkward to cover due to the fact that it is actually quite large, but one section at a time and a little care you should be able to manage. The prototype was covered in red, black and white profilm and looked very nice indeed!!! Cover the model in good quality coving if you can, because this model suffers from DUCK'S DISEASE and therefore gets a lot of gravel rash!!!
Fit out the entire model with the radio gear, engine and wheel. The model was balanced with the battery pack under the wheel well as mentioned earlier and the RX in the rear compartment on additional weight was used. One word of caution here, the C of G needs to be spot on due to the fact that the model has a short tail moment and an out of balance model will be very hard to control if it's tail heavy!! As with most short couple models a large elevator throw is not needed.
Let's talk about flying this beast a bit more! Caution when handling this model with the engine running at full throttle the little devil can be a bit of a handfull if the model is a little bit greasy, so make sure you have a good grip on it! The model that is !!! Orientation can be a little difficult so don't fly too far away, and remember if it's getting too much for you just throttle back and fly it around slowly like a trainer. Because the model has no dihedral it goes where you point it. Bear this is mind when turning at a steep bank angle. Beyond the vertical any up elevator means the model will do down! and in a hurry if you're not quick to respond. Well that's about it for me, enough reading go and start building.
HAPPY HOT DOGGING!!!
SPECIFICATIONS Hot Dog
Type: R/C Sports Combat Model
Hot Dog plans are available from:
Plan No. 658
This page was last modified on the 21-May-02